Cabernet franc is a thinking man’s cabernet sauvignon.
Cabernet franc has captivated me since enologist Bertrand Sourdais introduced me to the wines of his family estate Domaine de Pallus during a visit at Dominio de Atauta in 2009. Atauta is a Ribera del Duero estate he brought to life and managed for some years before returning to France. Domaine de Pallus makes phenomenal bio cabernet francs in Chinon. Try them – you can thank me later.
This post is about the personality of the grape. You learn about the nature of human beings by observing their actions, body language, temper etcetera. With a stretch of your imagination, you can do the same with grapes. The personality of grapes is defined by their physiological response to the climate they’re put in, their versatility, their boundaries of quality and proneness to disease. This is just as true for cabernet franc as for sangiovese, pinot noir and riesling.
For now, let’s dive into the mind of Franc.
Introducing Franc
You don’t meet Franc all over the world as you do with other prominent French grapes.
Left Bank Bordeaux
In Médoc and Graves, Cabernet Franc is the socially awkward big brother to Cabernet Sauvignon who occasionally gets invited along to parties. Franc is the guy who people mention most often when saying “So that’s all the invitations, right? Oh wait, we forgot about Franc.”
The aristocratic, status-driven climate of Bordeaux rubs him the wrong way. But rather than put up a fight against Sauvignon and Merlot, he resigns to third place in the viniferous hierarchy.
Standing next to his brother Sauvignon, Franc appears quirky and is kind of a wallflower. Sauvignon is the alpha male. He dominates the conversation with stories about him and his friend Robert from Maryland, which gets him all the American and Asian exchange student pussy. Franc is more down to earth and smells like tart cherries, graphite and pencil shavings, making the cute girls associate him with homework, not sex.
On his best day southwest of the Gironde, Franc is never more than the timid brother who Sauvignon calls over when the conversation gets stale and needs intellectual stimulation.
Here, Franc is like Anthony Michael Hall in the Breakfast Club. Smart as a tack but the only guy in detention that doesn’t hook up with a girl.
… And the right bank.
When Franc hangs out across the Gironde in Saint-Émilion, he instantly becomes more self-confident. Find him at Chateau Angelus or Cheval Blanc and you’ll spot him try to schmooze his way through cocktail parties, getting along well with the waiters and occasionally bang a homely-looking socialite. They’ve given him the nickname ‘Bouchet’ over there. He likes that.
In Saint-Émilion, Franc is not just an accidentally invited party guest, he’s part of the social fabric of the community – often a conversation starter. Still, he relies on his wingman, the jolly fat guy known as Merlot, to keep the conversation from getting too dry. Franc does well on the right bank yet could never call this place home.
Here, Franc is like Nick Nolte in 48 Hours. He’s essential to the plot and pushes the story forward, but Eddie Murphy steals the show as always.
Meanwhile, in Loire
In the Loire Valley, Franc manages to be himself in an atmosphere of like-minded eccentrics. Gamay, Pinot and Côt are friends – they get him, they really get him. There’s no situation in Loire where Franc can’t let his dry, acidic wit flow naturally and feel welcomed for who he is.
Loire invokes an entrepreneurial spirit in him – he relies entirely on himself though is not reluctant to collaborate with his local peers in exciting and refreshing blends.
In essence, Franc has found a social climate of positive reinforcement in Loire. This climate allows him to reach his own personal peak to the benefit of us all. Franc expresses his true self 100% in places like Chinon, Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Anjou, Saumur and Saumur-Champigny.
Here, Franc is a young Harvey Keitel. A tad quirky and stubborn, but can carry a whole movie like nobody’s business (I told you the top photo would make sense!)
PS: The industrious Jancis Robinson has talked every grape variety to death. Read her brilliant article on cab franc for reference.
Case in Point: l’Enchentoir 2009
Manoir de la Tete Rouge “l’Enchentoir” 2009 is pure Franc and pinpoints the grape’s appeal as well as its problem in a commercial sense.
First, its appeal should be obvious to any experienced wine drinker. Smooth, cool red current alongside blackberries, refreshing herbaceousness and a flinty, limestoney mineral punch. A touch of tertiary notes like forest floor and tobacco, though this is on the delicate side. Expressive and delightful on the nose yet serious and challenging. The palate immediately shows concentration and complexity. Medium plus acidity and a tannic bite is balanced by vibrant fruit with purity and liveliness. Certainly has ageing potential as evidenced by is evolution over an hour or so after pouring as well as overall structure.
Second, it’s not a wine that will immediately win everybody over, that’s plain to taste. Having sold my share of wine over the years, I know that most anyone likes to be challenged, but usually within the framework of their experience. The lighter body of cabernet franc may favor the trend towards lower alcohol levels as Thomas explained recently. However, its acidity and tannic structure alongside graphite notes and light, tart cherries sends a lot of people running. Alas, more for the rest of us.
So in essence, there is a reason why it’s so sparsely planted outside Loire, Bordeaux and Fruili. It’s the wine version of Donnie Darko – you could understand equally well why some love it and others criticize it. Both positions make sense to me.
Speaking of movies, try pairing a Saumur-Champigny like Clos Rougeard with Mean Streets. A blissful match.
CBS Wine 